| Here's how I snorkeled the
800. I looked around the web for ideas but I didn't care for some that I
seen so I kinda started from scratch. I also didn't want to stick up
pipes so I terminated the pipes under the pod as high as possible. I
Snorked a Forman so I had a little experience with the concept. I used
pool hose on the brick (Foreman) so I was sure it would work here too.
The nice thing about pool hose is it fits standard pvc fittings, so you
can use pvc pipe wherever you don't need a weird bend that would require
the flex or rubber couplings. |
| Here is what the front box where the air
intake is located before modification. |
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| Here is the CVT intake before modification.
There is a cover over this box that I already removed. This is under the
front left fender. The two intake are in the same "box". You can see the
air filter intake at the top of this pic. (all pics can be clicked on
for a larger image) |
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| I cut the CVT intake so the end faces
outward instead of down. I use pipe to the nearest size (2") to continue
it up into the pod. |
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| Here you can see both intakes have been cut,
looking down from the top. Also notice I cut off the front and top of
the "box" that covered the intakes. The air intake size is very close to
1.5" so that is the size I used there. |
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| I use a 1.5" rubber coupling to adapt the
air intake and a 2" rubber elbow for the CVT intake. |
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| I used 2 -2" street 45's to extend the
intake up into the pod. Dry fit everything before gluing! You'll have to
do a good amount of horsing and twisting to get it in the perfect spot.
|
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| For the air intake I used 1.5" pvc. A street
90, a street 45, and a short piece of flex. Again twist and turn and
test positioning carefully before gluing! I suggest you completely
assemble the pod so you are sure everything is fitting. I put the intake
box cover back in place under the front left fender, adding a couple
holes and quick connects to compensate for the lost supports. Not
critical but worth mentioning. |
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| Last but not least is the CVT exhaust
snorkel. Testing indicated that 1.5" pvc would be the best fit. Remove
the existing plastic exhaust part attached to the rubber coupling. I
used a 1.5" pvc 90 elbow to fasten directly in the existing rubber
coupling. |
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| I added a short section of pvc and another
90 elbow to extend the end to the right side of the ATV. Notice I added
heat tape to this area due to the exhaust being in close proximity. I
also attached a couple zip ties to keep it as far away from the exhaust
pipe as possible. |
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| I used a section of 1.5" flexible pvc and
added some heat tape for good measure to the engine side. Length is
about 3 feet on the Max. (get 4ft for the whole project) |
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| I had a little heavy foam rubber to the
engine bolt and heater hose where the pipe comes very close for good
measure. |
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| Once I snaked the flex up the front, I added
a 1.5" pvc 45, and a street 45 plus a very short section of hose to get
it up to the same height as the other intakes. Again, test test test to
be sure everything will fit before gluing! |
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| Exhaust snorkel flex. |
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| Looking down from the drivers
position...ART! Lower left, CVT intake, upper left engine intake, right
is the CVT exhaust. |
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| The only tipoff that there is anything
different in the end is CVT exhaust pipe is slightly exposed. I
found 2 things about this setup so far that I have not seen documented
anywhere, one, the exhaust is blowing directly under the handlebars
which will make a very nice heater in the winter and two, you can hear
what's going on in the CVT case much better!
I figure if I get in water much over the
shifter I'm screwed....but much better than just over the CVT case.
Cheers, Mike |
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